Spring is doing its thing across Northern Europe, blustery one day, gloriously sunny the next! Perfect weather for wrapping your hands around something really good. Thanks for being here for another month; it means more than you might think. This month's roaster is Sumo, and if the name sets an expectation of boldness, the coffees absolutely follow through. They're a team that leads with taste over theory, lets instinct have the final word, and has a healthy obsession with chasing that one cup they can't stop thinking about. Sounds like a perfect match!
Sumo has a strong identity and energy to it. What does the name represent to you now, beyond where it came from?
Everything, to be honest: discipline, effort, and the idea that coffee connects people. It’s about how we approach things: strong, a bit bold, not trying to please everyone. There’s a lot of discipline behind it as well, which people don’t always see. It’s not just fun and loud, there’s a lot of work and consistency behind everything we do.
You describe roasting as being led by taste rather than theory. How do you balance instinct vs structure when developing a coffee?
We use structure to get us close, but taste is always the final call. You can follow all the right numbers and curves and still end up with something that doesn’t feel right in the cup. Every coffee is different, so taste is everything in my opinion. Experience guides you, but you still need a solid framework to repeat things and stay consistent.
What does “good coffee” mean to you now, versus earlier in your career?
For me, good coffee is fruity, juicy, expressive, with really clear flavours, but also very drinkable. Something can be impressive for one sip, but not something you’d actually want to drink every day. Now it’s more about balance and making sense from start to finish. And honestly, every time I find a coffee I really love, it becomes a bit of a problem because I’m always chasing that same experience again or trying to top it.
You seem naturally curious when it comes to coffees and varieties. What draws you to a coffee when you first taste it?
Again, that fruity, juicy, expressive clarity, but also something unique. Not just something that ticks all the boxes. If it feels intentional and well executed, that’s what gets my attention. One day I might be impressed by a super clean washed, and the next day something heavily processed with multiple fermentation stages. I don't like a coffee just because it's a certain origin or process, it has to talk to me in the cup.
What do you think makes a great coffee experience today beyond just the coffee itself?
Honestly, simplicity and honesty. No pressure, no overcomplicating things. Just a good cup, in a nice space, with people who actually care. That’s enough.
How do you think about helping customers get the best out of your coffees?
We try to keep things clear and approachable. Not everyone wants a full breakdown of the process, so it’s about giving just enough guidance so people can enjoy the coffee without overthinking it. And if they want to go deeper, we’re always there.
Outside of coffee, what influences or inspires you?
A bit of everything: design, food, sport, travel, conversations with people. A lot of ideas don’t actually come from coffee itself.
Where would you like to take Sumo over the next few years?
Keep growing, but in the right way. More presence internationally, stronger relationships with our partners, and continuing to push quality. Not necessarily bigger for the sake of it, but better and more consistent.
And finally, any closing remark you would like to make to our subscribers?
Just thanks for being here and supporting what we do. It genuinely means a lot.
And if you get the chance to try something new this month, go for it - that’s where the fun is.
April's Selection
This month’s selection is a mix of coffees we really enjoy working with, each bringing something different and well put together.
BENSA BOMBE
Ethiopia | Heirloom| Washed
Bergamot, redfruit, molasses, citrus, black tea
We’ve got Bensa Bombe from Ethiopia, which is a great example of what that region does best, very floral and clean.
RUGALI
Rwanda | Red Bourbon | Natural
Pineapple, berries, molasses, clementines
Rugali from Rwanda is more on the fruity side, super sweet and expressive, the kind of coffee that just works and keeps you coming back to it.
SPICED MELONY
Colombia | Caturra | Washed double thermoshock with yeast
Watermelon,melon,aji chilli, apricot, panela, hints of florals and herbaceous
And then Spiced Melony from El Vergel in Colombia, which is a bit more experimental in terms of processing, but still very controlled and intentional.
Overall, it’s a selection that shows a few different directions coffee can take right now, without overcomplicating things.
